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Pygmy Panther Gecko (Paroedura androyensis) Care Sheet
Androyensis are currently the smallest known species of the genus Paroedura but are by no means fragile. Native to the deciduous forests of southern and eastern Madagascar this small terrestrial gecko is a true joy to observe. Wild caught specimens do appear in the reptile trade a few times a year but the hardiest animals will be the few sold as captive-bred.
*Note, we no longer work with this species.
Life Span- Unknown, still researching.
Size- 2 ½- 3 inches with females typically being larger.
Appearance- These geckos have brown, grey and black dorsal patterns with white underbellies and typically have an orange tinge to their tails. They curl their tails over their backs and waive them while hunting, disturbed, and occasionally when interacting with each other. They generally move slowly around their tank unless they are stalking prey or frightened, in which case they are capable of quick bursts of surprising speed.
Captive Care:
-Cage: They seem to spend most of their time on the ground so a longer cage is preferable to a tall one, though they will utilize branches for chasing prey and pouncing. I successfully housed a pair in a 5 gallon tank with screen lid.
-Décor: In the wild these geckos can be found in leaf litter and at the base of trees and shrubs. They enjoy curling up in clean dry leaves on the ground of their cage where they will sleep during the day. Good cage décor includes: branches the width of the animals, clean dirt substrate, and at least ½ the tank’s floor should have dried curled bay leaves.
-Temperature: Their native habitat is typically a steady warm temperature with very distinct dry and rainy periods, with the norm being dry. They seem to do best between 80 and 86*F.
-Light: We have not found lighting to be necessary for this nocturnal species, but it can be used if desired as long as it does not create too high of a temperature in the cage.
-Substrate: Dry, clean soil.
-Water: Lightly mist the cage 1-2x a day. This is not a water-loving species and they will frequently squeak and run from water droplets. Be careful not to stress them too much when watering and lightly mist the area they are not sitting in at that time. If they are thirsty they will come over to drink.
-Feeding: These animals take surprisingly large prey items for their size and are quite aggressive feeders. Hatchlings may be started on fruit flies and pin-head crickets, but within 3 months will accept small crickets. Adults regularly take ½” crickets and ¾ grown Turkistan roaches and house flies.
-Breeding: It has been noted that females seem to produce best when fed a varied diet and supplemented with calcium and D3. Females require a dry substrate area, too high of humidity may cause issues for her laying. She will bury her eggs a few centimeters deep in the substrate. They lay clutches of 2 eggs every 3 to 4 weeks. Eggs should be removed and incubated at 80-86*F and will hatch in 60-90 days. Offspring can be kept in pairs and start feeding on fruit flies and pinhead crickets.
*Note, we no longer work with this species.
Life Span- Unknown, still researching.
Size- 2 ½- 3 inches with females typically being larger.
Appearance- These geckos have brown, grey and black dorsal patterns with white underbellies and typically have an orange tinge to their tails. They curl their tails over their backs and waive them while hunting, disturbed, and occasionally when interacting with each other. They generally move slowly around their tank unless they are stalking prey or frightened, in which case they are capable of quick bursts of surprising speed.
Captive Care:
-Cage: They seem to spend most of their time on the ground so a longer cage is preferable to a tall one, though they will utilize branches for chasing prey and pouncing. I successfully housed a pair in a 5 gallon tank with screen lid.
-Décor: In the wild these geckos can be found in leaf litter and at the base of trees and shrubs. They enjoy curling up in clean dry leaves on the ground of their cage where they will sleep during the day. Good cage décor includes: branches the width of the animals, clean dirt substrate, and at least ½ the tank’s floor should have dried curled bay leaves.
-Temperature: Their native habitat is typically a steady warm temperature with very distinct dry and rainy periods, with the norm being dry. They seem to do best between 80 and 86*F.
-Light: We have not found lighting to be necessary for this nocturnal species, but it can be used if desired as long as it does not create too high of a temperature in the cage.
-Substrate: Dry, clean soil.
-Water: Lightly mist the cage 1-2x a day. This is not a water-loving species and they will frequently squeak and run from water droplets. Be careful not to stress them too much when watering and lightly mist the area they are not sitting in at that time. If they are thirsty they will come over to drink.
-Feeding: These animals take surprisingly large prey items for their size and are quite aggressive feeders. Hatchlings may be started on fruit flies and pin-head crickets, but within 3 months will accept small crickets. Adults regularly take ½” crickets and ¾ grown Turkistan roaches and house flies.
-Breeding: It has been noted that females seem to produce best when fed a varied diet and supplemented with calcium and D3. Females require a dry substrate area, too high of humidity may cause issues for her laying. She will bury her eggs a few centimeters deep in the substrate. They lay clutches of 2 eggs every 3 to 4 weeks. Eggs should be removed and incubated at 80-86*F and will hatch in 60-90 days. Offspring can be kept in pairs and start feeding on fruit flies and pinhead crickets.